Use No. 3 knitting needles and baby yarn (the larger gage yarn will make a toddler sized bootie). Use No. 1 knitting needles for preemies. easy to knit booties, easy and easy booties,knit baby booties,knitting booties, free baby pattern,Free Baby Pattern,KNITTING, FREE BABY PATTERN
Start Cast on 44 stitches.
1 and 2 Knit.
3 and 4 Purl.
5 and 6 Knit.
7 and 8 Purl.
9 and 10 Knit.
11 and 12 Purl.
13 and 14 Knit.
15 and 16 Purl.
17 and 18 Knit.
19 and 20 Purl.
21 and 22 Knit.
23 Bindoff 10 stitches, Purl remaining.
24 Bindoff 10 stitches, Purl remaining.
25 and 26 Knit.
27 and 28 Purl.
29 and 30 Knit.
31 and 32 Purl.
33 and 34 Knit.
35 and 36 Purl.
37 and 38 Knit.
39 Decrease 1 stitch each side, Purl.
40 Purl.
41 Decrease 1 stitch each side, Knit.
42 Knit.
43 Knit 2 together entire row.
44 Knit 2 together entire row. Finish. Cast off.
To complete, sew up the front and back of bootie, turn right-side out and finish with a bow or ribbon.
The width of this edge can vary according to the weight of thread and size of knitting needles used. The pattern forms interlocking squares.
Abbreviations:
K (knit); p (purl); YO (yarn over); tog (together); sts (stitches);
Note: To make an eyelet: k 2 tog, YO twice, k 2 tog.
To begin, cast on 31 sts and k once across.
Row 1: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, eyelet, k 2, eyelet twice, k 2, eyelet twice, k 1 (31sts).
On even number rows the second yarn over twice on the needle is purled.
Row 2: K 1, k 2 tog, k 24, YO, k 2 tog, k 2 (30 sts).
Row 3: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, k 1, eyelet, k 3, eyelet, eyelet twice, k 1 (30 sts).
Row 4: K 1, k 2 tog, k 23, YO, k 2 tog, k 2 (29 sts).
Row 5: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, k 2, eyelet, k 8, eyelet twice, k 1 (29 sts).
Row 6: K 1, k2tog, k22, YO, k2 tog, k 2 (28 sts).
Row 7: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, k 3, eyelet, k 6, eyelet twice, k 1 (28 sts).
Row 8: K 1, k 2 tog, k 21, YO, k 2 tog, k 2 (27 sts).
Row 9: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, k 4, eyelet 4 times; k 1 (27 sts).
Row 10: K 1, k 2 tog, p 1, k 2 tog, k 17, YO, k 2 tog, k 2 (25 sts).
Row 11: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, k 6, eyelet twice, k 2, YO twice, k 2 tog, k 1 (26 sts).
Row 12: K 22, YO, k 2 tog, k 2 (26 sts).
Row 13: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, k 4, eyelet 3 times, k 1, YO twice, k 2 tog, k 1 (27 sts).
Row 14: K 23, YO, k 2 tog, k 2 (27 sts.)
Row 15: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, k 3, eyelet, k 6, eyelet, k 1, YO twice, k 2 tog, k 1 (28 sts).
Row 16: K 24, YO, k 2 tog, k 2 (28 sts).
Row 17: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, k 2, eyelet, k 8, eyelet, k 1, YO twice, k 2 tog, k 1 (29 sts).
Row 18: K 25, YO, k 2 tog, k 2 (29 sts).
Row 19: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, k l, eyelet, k 3, eyelet, k 3, eyelet, k 1, YO twice, k 2 tog, k 1 (30 sts).
Row 20: K 26, YO, k 2 tog, k 2 (30 sts).
Row 21: K 4, YO, k 2 tog, eyelet, k 2, eyelet twice, k 2, eyelet, k 1, O twice, k 2 tog, k 1 (31 sts).
Repeat from Row 2 and continue.
Thank you Kay for sharing with us..
Size for 12 year old or so, depending on how tight you knit and if you use double yarn.
Cast on 34 stitches on a size 6 needle.
Work 2 – 2 ½ inches of ribbing (for cuff) using k1, p1.
Begin the hand: Row 1 & 3: knit. Row 2 and even rows: purl.
Row 5 (beginning thumb): k 16, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 2 stitches, k 16.
Row 7: k 16, inc 1 st in the next st, *k 2, inc 1 st in the next st, k 16.
Row 9: like Row 7, but k 4 between the increase stitches.
Row 11: like Row 7, but k 6 .
Row 13: like Row 7, but k 8 .
Row 15: like Row 7, but k 10 .
Row 17: like Row 7, but k 12 .
Row 19: k 31, put remaining st (17) on stitch holder.
Row 20: p 14, put remaining st (17) on stitch holder.
Knit a Row, purl back until thumb is desired length, k 2 together to “gather” on last Row. Cut yarn about 12 inches, use a needle to sew up the side of thumb.
Put the stitches from the stitch holders back onto the two knitting needles. When you reattach the yarn, create a new stitch at the base of the thumb. I always wait a couple rows to knot the attached yarn so I don’t get a hole at the base of the thumb. Finish knitting across, purl back. Continue until the mitten is desired length. K 2 tog at the top, probable twice so you have about 8 stitches left. Cut yarn, sew up side of mitten with a needle.
Designed by Kim Goddard
This sock pattern for women works best with a sock weight or skinny sport weight yarn – anything from Socka Colours to Patons Look at Me! baby sport works well. My current favourite is the Look at Me! because it is inexpensive, easy to find, comfy to wear and comes in some of the wildest colours I’ve ever seen. The socks in the photo are made of Look at Me! – and believe me, people do! I have also made these socks in Wendy’s DK cotton, using ribbing all the way down the cuff and on the top of the foot to give the socks more stretch, since cotton is not elastic.
Materials:
100 grams sock yarn of your choice
Have some contrast colour yarn handy for the toes if you are making socks for a long foot, or if you want to extend the cuff length.
Size 2 to 3 US (3 mm) double pointed needles
Gauge:
28 sts= 4 inches
Instructions
CO 56 sts. Join and mark beg of round.
Rib in K2, P2 rib for 7 inches or desired leg length.
Divide For Heel
Put one half of the stitches (28), centered on the beginning of the round, on a needle. (The easiest way to do this is to knit the first 14 sts, then turn and slip the 14 sts on the other side of the marker onto the needle). Place the other half on a holder – these stitches will be the instep later on. Work the heel flap over the 28 sts (using contrast colour if desired):
P across the back of the heel flap, slipping the first stitch.
Turn.
Sl1, K1 across.
Turn.
Repeat these 2 rows till you have worked 28 rows (count the slipped stitches which should be 14).
Turning The Heel
You are making short rows to shape a little cup for the heel.
Starting on the right side, knit halfway across the heel flap (14 sts) plus 2 (16). Sl1, K1, psso. K1. Turn.
Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1. Turn.
Sl1, K across to the gap (where you turned), slip the first stitch before the gap, K the stitch on the other side, psso, K1. Turn again.
Sl1, P across to the gap. P2tog across the gap. P1. Turn.
Continue in this manner until all the heel flap stitches have been used up.
Join the first colour back in if you made a contrasting heel. Now you will be picking up the stitches on the sides of the heel flap and knitting around the sock again. Those stitches you put aside before doing the heel flap have waited patiently and will be put back into use!
By slipping the first stitch of each row on the heel flap, you have made a lovely chain edge which will be easy to pick up. You should be able to get 14 stitches on each side, but don’t worry if you get more or less than this. I usually pick up the stitches on one needle and knit them onto another, twisting them by knitting into the back of the loop.
Knit across those patient instep stitches, or continue them in ribbing, then pick up and knit the same number of stitches on the other side of the heel flap. Knit one half of the heel flap stitches (8 or 9) onto this needle. Mark the centre as the beginning of the round. You now have three needles with rather a lot of stitches on them – one for each side of the gusset and one for the instep. If you have a spare needle in about the same size you can put the instep stitches on two needles instead – I find this is much easier to work.
Now you want to make a row of decreases on each side of the heel flap to get back to the same number of stitches you began with (56).
Knit to 3 sts from the end of needle 1, K2tog, K1.
Rib across the instep sts.
On needles 3 and 4, K first st, Sl1, K1, psso. Knit to end.
K next round plain (ribbing the instep if desired).
Repeat decrease round every other round until you have 56 sts again.
Continue with knit sole and ribbed instep (just follow the established rib) until the foot measures 2½” less than your foot length. I use my 7″ double points to give me a rough idea of when to begin the toe shaping, since my foot is 9½” long.
Shape Toe:
Join contrast colour if using such.
Knit one round plain.
Decrease round:
K to 3 sts from end of first needle, K2tog, K1.
K first st on instep needle, Sl1, psso, knit to 3 sts from end of instep needle (or end of needle 3 if you split the instep sts), K2tog, K1.
Last needle, K1, Sl1, psso, K to end.
Knit one round plain.
Continue alternating plain and decrease rounds until you have half the number of sts you began with (28, or 7 on each of 4 needles). Then decrease on every round until you have 12 sts left all together.
Cut off the yarn leaving an 18″ tail. Thread a needle with this yarn tail and graft these sts together using the Kitchener stitch or just thread the end through all the sts and draw them up tightly. Weave the end of the yarn into the back of the stitches (turn the sock inside out).
Weave in all your yarn ends, making sure to leave no knots. Knots in a sock will give you nasty blisters! There, you’ve made a sock! Welcome to the new addiction…
Now you can make the mate. Handmade socks don’t always match. If you want to, you can create a wardrobe of single unmatched but coordinating socks and wear a different pair every time!
MATERIALS
Yarn: Use two strands of 4 ply worsted weight yarn. I’m not sure how much it takes as I bought 170 g skeins and had plenty of yarn leftover. I knit these slippers in two colors. Black for the sole and light blue for the rest of the slipper. You can make them all one color if you want.
Needles: Two 5mm needles. I used circular needles as I find them easier to work with. I used them the same way I would use the two long 5mm needles. But if you prefer using the two long needles, by all means do so.
SIZE
These will fit a foot of 9 1/2 inches. For every 1/2 inch larger add 4 stitches when you cast on. For every 1/2 inch smaller subtract 4 stitches when you cast on. I will have notes in blue on the pattern for where to add or subtract stitches for the different sizes. It will be listed as (S, L) – meaning Small size which is 1/2 inch smaller and L meaning 1/2 inch larger. For even smaller and larger sizes, just add or subtract sts from those sizes. Please note: I have not tried to make these in different sizes. I am only going by my gauge, I think it should work out.
Gauge: 4 sts = 1 inch
Abbreviations used:
st – Stitch
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together
P2tog – Purl 2 stitches together
inc st – Increase stitch. (I did my increases by picking up a loop between the stitches and putting it on my left needle, then knitting it.)
This pattern is worked in rows. When completed you will sew up the sole and the back of heel seam.
Important: The slippers are folded in half lengthwise when you are finished, so that is why the sole seems big at the start. Just continue working the pattern and when you get to the “Sides and Top”, you will notice it taking shape and see where you sew the bottom seam and back of heel seam.
SOLE Of the Slipper:
Working with two strands of yarn held together, Cast on 52 sts. (48, 56)
Rows 1, 2 – K
Row 3 – K1, inc. st, K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K2, inc. st., K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K1 – (56 sts) (52, 60)
Rows 4, 5 – K
Row 6 – K1, inc. st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K2, inc st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K1 – (60 sts) (56, 64)
Rows 7, 8 – K
Row 9 – K1, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K2, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K1 – (64 sts) (60, 68)
Rows 10, 11 – K
Row 12 – K1, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K2, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K1 – (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 13 – K33 (29, 37), inc st, K2, inc st, K33 (29, 37) – (70 sts) (66, 74)
SIDES and TOP of the slipper:
Change colors here if you are using two colors.
Rows 14, 15, 16, 17 – K
Row 18 – K31 (29, 33), K2tog, K4, K2tog , K31 (29, 33) – (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 19 – K30 (28, 32), K2tog, P4, K2tog, K30 (28, 32) – (66 sts) (62, 70)
Row 20 – K28 (26, 30), K2tog, K6, K2tog, K28 (26, 30) – (64 sts) (60, 68)
Row 21 – K27 (25, 29), K2tog, P6, K2tog, K27 (25, 29) – (62 sts) (58, 66)
Row 22 – K25 (23, 27), K2tog, K8, K2tog, K25 (23, 27) – (60 sts) (56, 64)
Row 23 – K24 (22, 26), K2tog, P8, K2tog, K24 (22, 26) – (58 sts) (54, 62)
Row 24 – K22 (20, 24), K2tog, K10, K2tog, K22 (20, 24) – (56 sts) (52, 60)
Row 25 – K21 (19, 23), K2tog, P10, K2tog, K21 (19, 23) – (54 sts) (50, 58)
Row 26 – K19 (17, 21), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K19 (17, 21) – (52 sts) (48, 56)
Row 27 – K18 (16, 20), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K18 (16, 20) – (50 sts) (46, 54)
Row 28 – K17 (15, 19), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K17 (15, 19) – (48 sts) (44, 52)
Row 29 – K16 (14, 18), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K16 (14, 18) – (46 sts) (42, 50)
Row 30 – K1, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K5, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K1 – (41 sts) (37, 45)
Row 31 – K13 (11, 15), K2tog, K11, K2tog, K13 (11, 15) – (39 sts) (35, 43)
Cast off. Sew up seams.
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